The short answer, the costs, and the cases where replacement really is the right call.

If the box frame is sound, repairing and draught-proofing is cheaper than replacement, keeps the original glass and timber, and is usually the only option on listed buildings and in conservation areas. Replacement makes sense when the frame itself has failed — which is rarer than most people are told.
Original cylinder or crown glass, with its slight distortion, is the thing people miss most — once it is skipped it cannot be bought back. You also lose the slender glazing bars and the exact proportions of the original joinery, which is what makes a period facade look right.
Even then, a replacement should be timber, made to match the original profile. In a conservation area that is usually what consent requires.
Repair, in nearly every case. Draught-proofing is £280 + VAT per window and a full restoration £1,280 + VAT, against several thousand pounds per window for a like-for-like timber replacement, before you add making good inside and out.
When the box frame itself has gone — not the sill or the bottom rail, which are routine repairs, but the frame built into the wall. That is rare. We will tell you when we see it rather than quoting for work that will not last.
Usually yes, and it is often refused for uPVC or for anything that changes the sightlines. Like-for-like repair normally needs no consent at all, which is why repair is the simpler route as well as the cheaper one.
Draught-proofing removes the draught and cuts noise, but single glass still loses heat. If warmth is the priority, slim double-glazed units in the existing sashes (£980 + VAT per window) get you most of the way there while keeping the original window.
Properly spliced timber, new cords and a maintained paint finish will give you decades — these windows have often already lasted a century. Repaint every eight to ten years and the repair will outlast a replacement unit.


